heading out of Tok, there is only one road home: The AlCan Highway. This is a section of the road that I haven’t been on before, as I took the Klondike loop on up to Dawson City on the way in. The road is fine until I cross the Canadian border, then things really get icky. This is the worst road I’ve been on the entire trip! Top of the World highway was nowhere near as annoying as this poor excuse for a road! Plus, the bad road near Chicken was 12 miles long. This is more like 100 miles of rough gravel and broken blacktop.
This is a water truck. They water down the gravel so the mud adheres better to the sides of your vehicle.
I was so happy to call it a day and stop in a nice provincial park on lake Kluane. The lake reminds me of Tahoe, crystal clear water, and a beautiful turquoise color. I caught a cool rainbow above the lake as I cruised along the shore. it is a BIG lake, must be 20 miles long!
The campground is typical of provincial parks, secluded sites, nice scenery, and low cost. I like it here!
Hey! That RV is dirtier than mine! Must have been to Chicken!
Right about here is when I decide to make the right turn up ahead and go down to Haines. I was originally going to bypass it, but decided to visit. I’m glad I did! First off, it’s Alaska, can’t get enough of that! Second, the road down to Haines is reputed to be quite scenic. Let’s see…
Yep! Can’t ever have too many pix of mountains. On the way in, along the Chilkat river, I spot a number of these fish wheels. A water powered fish catching machine! These are modern versions of fish wheels the native people used hundreds of years ago.
Haines is a small town built on the hillsides above a harbor. It is one of the prettiest locations in Alaska. the spectacularly nice weather I have somehow inherited makes it even more beautiful!
I find my way to the Port Chilkoot campground, located on a hill above town, in a big grove of old-growth spruce trees. A bit rustic, but perfect for my tastes. Full hookups! Wow, haven’t had any of those in a while.
The campground is situated right next to historic Fort Seward. Built in the early 1900s, it was the first military base in Alaska. De-commissioned after WWII, the fort was purchased by a veterans group and was eventually designated a Natural Historic Site. Today, many of the original buildings are still there. Some are privately owned homes, and others house businesses and cultural centers. I take a walk around the old fort and snap some pix.
Walking down to the marina, I discover that elusive photo op: Reflections! Kim will be so jealous!
I was baffled by several boats that seem to have outboard engines mounted inside the boat! Not sure what the thought process is there… maybe someone will know and explain it to me. Here’s an example of this rather odd (to me) marine architecture
Yes, it is all very scenic, I know… But I found some other cool things to do in Haines besides ogle the views! This is the American Bald Eagle Foundation in town. They routinely rescue injured eagles (and other native birds) and either nurse them back to health and release them, or keep them and use them in educational ways, like teaching school kids about these amazing animals. This barn owl, sitting calmly with it’s handler, is an example.
Housed in the center is a wildlife museum with an outstanding collection of animal mounts, like nothing I’ve ever seen! Everything is cataloged by number, and you carry an information sheet with you to tell you about all of the different birds, mammals, fish, crustaceans, etc. Really neat!
Wait! There’s more! If you come back in the afternoon, you can see them feeding their eagles! They have several birds that came to them injured, and are unable to be released into the wild. A handler comes out and feeds the birds and answers questions about them. These birds are not “tame” but are used to being around people. It is a neat chance to watch eagles from up close.
OK, I think I earned a beer after all that. As luck would have it, there is a brewery in Haines: The Haines Brewing co. is located in the nearby fairgrounds, and operates year round. It is housed in a tiny building, and there’s not much more than a wide railing inside where you can order a beer, or get a growler filled, but for my tastes, this is the best brewery I have visited in Alaska. They have a really nice pale ale, a very drinkable spruce tip beer, a tasty red, a fine IPA, and a really outstanding stout, named Black Fang. Actually, I really liked every beer I tasted there, that is something that, in my experience, is a bit unusual. In fact, it was so unusual that I had to go back again the next day and taste them all over again. Yup, still yummy! Against all reason, I had to buy another growler and bring some home… I wonder which one I chose…. Guess I’ll have to drink it and find out!
The weather continues to be just as nice as can be, so I spend a lot of time riding the bike around. I ride out to the river to see if there are any bears catching salmon.
Nope. No bears. I ride off in the opposite direction and run across a big fish processing plant on Mud Bay. Hey, this might be interesting!
Sure enough, they have a gift shop, and the nice lady inside tells me “go ahead and walk around” so I do. Out to the pier where the fishing boats come in and the fish is put into containers on ice. Then, on to a viewing gallery where I watch them cleaning and processing some of today’s catch. These are being vac bagged whole, but they have automated machines that filet the fish too, they aren’t using them today, tho. Still, pretty neat!
Wow, lots to see in Haines! Glad I changed my mind and came after all. On my last evening, I discover a little Mexican restaurant close by, so I walk over to Mosey’s Cantina to give Alaskan Mexican food a second try. (the last try was in Valdez, and it was not so great). OK, lets see… cute and funky little place, homemade chips and fresh salsa with a nice heat to it, good beer (Haines Brewing Co) on tap. What the heck, I order the Chili Rellanos. That is a stretch, indeed, but the chefs prove they know what they are doing: I get a pair of very respectable Chilis, cooked right, and sided with a very nice sauce. OK, this is really good! Fresh Guacamole, yes! Mmmm.
Thanks, Y’all. I had a blast! Tomorrow, I will hop on a ferry with the RV and land in Skagway. Just a short stop to do laundry, maybe grab some last minute Alaska Souvenirs, and then head up the hill into Canada again. Rest assured, I still have some cool adventures up ahead. Keep your eyes on the blog!
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