OK, we’ll get to Hyder in just a minute, but first, some unfinished business from the last entry: I actually got to see the Northern Lights! It was a clear moonless night at the provincial park, and no nearby lights to mar the darkness. I went out as the last afterglow of the sun faded, just to look at the stars. There, in the northern sky was a faint shimmering curtain of green. I was awestruck! I was also surprised at how much it was moving. I always thought the aurora just sat there. I pulled myself away and grabbed my little point and shoot and tried to get a picture (with no advance prep, tripod or anything). I did manage to get this one faint shot.
It lasted just a couple of minutes, although there was a faint green glow in the northern sky for another hour. I stood out there waiting for more, but alas, it was not to be. Still, I’m extremely jazzed to have seen it!
I rolled out the next morning for the short drive to Stewart, BC, and then to Hyder, AK. The two communities sit about 2 miles apart, and in between them is the US/Canada border. Stewart is a moderate size town of about 1000 residents, Hyder is much smaller, with only about 90 permanent residents. It is a neat little town, as you’ll see. Most folks go to Hyder to see the bears at Fish Creek, and I am no different. The drive down to Stewart is a pretty one! There are lots of glaciers up on the mountains.
The road winds through an impressive canyon, following what is obviously a glacier fed river, judging by its color.
Stopping at a roadside pullout, I can now see the source: Bear Glacier!
The view from the road is outstanding! You can see the river of water flowing from under the glacier, and there’s that elusive glacier blue. Really nice!
They don’t call this the Glacier Highway for nothing! Passing through Stewart, I stop briefly to use the town’s free dump station and continue on. I’ll be back here in a few days. In no time at all, I’m rolling into Hyder! Not much here but a few shops, a post office and general store. I roll out to Camp RunAmuck and find a site for a couple of days. Water and electric, not too expensive, and close to the bear viewing.
It is such a nice day (defined as +60 degrees and not actually raining) that I decide to take the bike and ride out to see Salmon glacier and the scenery. The road turns to gravel and starts a 4000’ climb up into the hills.
After about 10 miles, I get my first look at Salmon Glacier. Holy cow! That is huge! I’m a couple thousand feet above it, so you can get some idea of the scale. This is the “toe” of the glacier, and a close up of one of the caves in it.
Continuing on, I’m wowed by all the hanging glaciers all around me.
The road parallels the glacier and continues to climb. The views are, well, you’ll see.
Reaching the summit, the source of the glacier is now visible. I lack the words to describe it, and the pictures hardly do it justice, but this is one of the most amazing things I’ve seen the whole trip.
Let’s try a panorama…. Thanks to Rich for turning me on to Autostitch!
I get the mandatory pic in front of the glacier, and meet Keith, who is manning probably the most remote souvenir shop in the known universe! LOL Of course, I bite and get one of his CDs of pictures and videos of the area.
The road continues on, and so do I.
I find a trail that looks like it might lead down to the glacier. I take it, and do get a lot closer, but the road peters out in a rock field that I can’t cross with the bike. I hike down a ways and get some pix of the glacier’s backside.
Here are some views from my continuing ride back into the mountains. Lots of glaciers and scenery!
Back in there somewhere is another big glacier…
…and an abandoned tunnel. I really wanted to ride through the tunnel, but they had gone to great pains to block it off thoroughly. Probably kept me from doing something stupid (where’s the fun in that?). I do have photographic proof that there is indeed a light at the end of the tunnel.
Wow! What a ride! About 60 miles round trip, my butt is sore! I relax back at the rig, and by chance pull up a weather forecast for the area. Uh-Oh… looks like the next several days are going to be rainy. I might just have to skip dinner and ride out to the bear watching spot this evening. (It’s not much fun on the bike when it gets wet and cold).
Located on the banks of the salmon river, the forest service has constructed a long elevated viewing platform. Folks flock here hoping to see some bears. I join the flock about 6:30.
Well, there ain’t no bears. Just a lot of folks with some pretty extreme camera gear, milling around looking bored.
The river is just chock full of pink and chum salmon! The chums are really big! Looks like a bear buffet to me, so where are they?
I hang out for a while, and am snapping pix of the fish, and chatting with some of the fellow hopefuls. Everyone drifts away to the far end of the platform, and I’m all by my lonesome, just watching the fish spawn down below (not very exciting). Then, Holy Shit, there’s a bear under the bridge! Right in front of me!
I suppress the urge to holler “Hey everybody, there’s a bear over here” and concentrate on getting some shots. I figure all them other folks will eventually figure it out. For now, though, this is MY bear. I saw him first!
Oh, great, here comes everybody else… the bear is not impressed. LOL He goes shopping for a second fish, but these ones are all dead, not too appetizing….
… So he heads out into the stream to assess the situation. He stops for a salad, then gets fishing for serious, running down a big tasty fresh one.
Meanwhile, another bear swims over via the pond to join the fun. He crosses under us and enters the fish market.
It starts to rain (oh, fun!), so I stash my camera under my rain gear and just watch. After all, I got MY bear on film, why bother with latecomers! Hah! When the bears leave, so do the crowds of folks with their cameras. Looks like it’s time to ride home, sure wish it would stop raining (it doesn’t). I get home wet, but with great pix and great experiences. My first Day in Hyder!
The next morning, it is socked in and rains all day. Sure glad I got my sightseeing done yesterday! I do take a walk through town, and spend several hours talking with the folks at the general store and gift shops.I hear some pretty interesting stories about life in Hyder… (now, this here is a no-shitter….). I score some internationally famous hand made fudge at the Boundary gallery, and then stop at the blue bus for some excellent halibut and chips.
Tomorrow, I’ll take the RV on the arduous two mile drive to Stewart and see what’s going on up there.
