Up north of Fairbanks are a couple of hot springs. The most well known is Cheena, but there’s also a unique one in the tiny town of Manley. I didn’t make it to either one back in 2014, so it’s on to adventure!
To get to the town of Manley Hot Springs, you head north of Fairbanks to Livengood. The road is paved to the junction with the Dalton highway, which heads north to the Arctic circle and Prudhoe bay, but to get to Manley, you have to travel over 75 miles of dirt and gravel road. OK, I can do that…. I think. This part of Alaska is mostly wilderness, and there’s not much traffic. It’s a pretty drive, but the road is fairly rough with frost heaves and patches. Along the way, you can see sections of the Alaskan oil pipeline crossing the hills.
There was a big wildfire up here a couple years ago, and it burned all along the pipeline, but didn’t damage it at all. A tribute to good engineering. Anyway, I make the turn onto the road to Manley, and the fun begins. The road starts off pretty smooth, but then it really starts to get rough.
After about 30 miles, I’ve had enough! I’m getting a little worried about breaking the RV, and I’m down to 15-20 miles an hour at best. I decide to put plan B into effect. I find a nice overlook, and park there. I’ll ride the bike the rest of the way into town, a mere 45 miles or so. I enjoy a very quiet night, looking out over hundreds of miles of wide open spaces. If I could have a view like this off my front porch, I think I could live up here just for that.
The next morning, I strap a full gas can on the bike and head out. It’s a warm sunny day, and the ride is easy on the bike. Along the way were some amazing views!
Fireweed is growing everywhere! Fireweed is said to be magical. It grows in profusion every summer, especially in areas that have recently been cleared off by wildfires. It starts to blossom at the bottom of the flower cluster, and during the summer, the blooms get higher and higher, and when the tip of the fireweed blooms, summer is over. Looks like I still have some time left, but it’s a good reminder that winter is coming, best hurry!
I make it to Manley! The town started back in the early 1900s when gold and silver mining were booming. I’ve been told that there were once as many as 30,000 people living in the area, but today I bet the town is 100 souls or less. Most of the place really hasn’t changed much in the last century.
The original road house is still in operation, and is very cool. Folks come here to stay, and the locals come for coffee and such. I have a beer with some folks, and learn a lot about the town’s history.
Oh, yeah! The hot springs, that’s why we’re her after all. It was quite an experience, let me tell you. First, there’s a phone in the roadhouse, and I call the keymaster of the springs. She’s real nice, and says I can have the springs till 3. OK, looks like it’s a private thing. She says” come on by the house and get the key” OK, where’s that house? After directions, I ride over, get the key, and follow her directions to the springs. OK, guess this is it, looks like a greenhouse to me, but the key fits, and I enter into a really neat place.
The open door reveals a path…. and I follow it. Wow! Grapevines hang from the roof, and flowers are everywhere. There’s a sign that says “Please don’t eat miss Gladys's tomatoes.” In the center of all this are several concrete tubs. One is really hot, the other is cooler. I enjoy a soak au-natural, and am sorry to have to go when my time’s up.
The 45 mile return ride is pleasant, I’m purring along in a t-shirt, sunny, relaxed, even peaceful. I come around a corner, and glory be, there’s home!
The next morning, it’s time to brave the 30 miles back to pavement, and the weather, which had been so awesome, turns the other cheek. It’s raining, foggy, and the road is a sea of mud. Oh, goody! Can’t see much, but I press on. Looks like this guy never made it off the road, hope I have better luck!
I make it back to pavement after a few anxious moments on the slip-n-slide, and pull off and sit for a while, waiting to see if any of my tires go flat. Seriously! All seems OK, so I head off to the next adventure, but I’m not sure the RV will ever be clean again! Hey, it looks “Alaskan”!
Next stop: Cheena!
In effing credible! Must have been a heck of a starry night before you took to the bike. Love the hot house/springs.
ReplyDeleteYou and Glyn were just missing each other. Alyssa went to sit in the hot springs and loved it. He had a nice visit with Dennis and Carol. Glad you are making all the rounds. If still near Fairbanks don't miss ' The Raw Fur Shop' across the highway from the Harley store. A different kind of fur store.
ReplyDelete