Yes, I know, the title says Homer, but I’m still in Ninilchik. Before heading south, I took advantage of a beautiful clear day to ride around the area. I managed to get back to the cliffs above Deep Creek, where there are lots of eagles. It was a breezy day, with a stiff onshore flow, and I was hoping to get some pix of eagles slope soaring on the cliffs. This is looking down on the Deep Creek recreation area.
And yes, the eagles are flying above, along the cliffs. I get a few good shots, but spend most of my time just watching them. There are also a number of gulls, and some really big ravens cruising by. I wish I had a R/C sailplane with me… I could fly with them!
Looking down, I can see the busy boat launch. Lots if trailers lined up and boats coming and going.
I can see the RV parking area off to the north. A good place to stay near the beach. Lighthouse on the rocks, yes, pretty scenic!
Back at Chuck’s, the usual social is in progress. Growlers of Alaska’s best brews, and chatting on a warm afternoon. That’s what it’s all about! Most of us are headed in different directions… some to Seward, some to Anchorage, and some on over to Valdez. It is really neat the way the group disperses and then re-creates itself as the days go by.
I arrive back in Homer, and grab a site on the east side of the spit. I’m parked on the water, at least when the tide is in. When it’s out, the water is way over there!
The tides here run about 20-22 feet here, so every 6 hours or so, the bay is either full, or empty.
At low tide, folks go down to the inlet to fish. They are catching mostly silvers now, and I’m ready to give it a try.
The sunsets in Alaska last for an hour or more, and you see some interesting effects. The mountains across the bay are turning pink! That is termed “alpenglow” I’m told, and it makes a nice pic. This is around 11pm. Yes, it is actually starting to get dark at night for a few hours now
The fishing hole is interesting…. it is a very frustrating place to fish! Once the fish get into the pond, they go into spawning mode. They stop eating, so you only catch one if you piss it off, or snag it. Meanwhile, the salmon are jumping clear out of the water right in front of you! I mean, SAILING through the air! Constantly. I’m not talking about a few fish jumping… it is a frigging chorus line! You can see whole schools of them swim by, and literally dodge around your lure or bait. All those fish, and I can’t catch any! I do notice that I have a lot of company in that, so I don’t feel too bad about it, but dang it, the fish are right there! Someone give me a net… or a baseball bat! I’ll get me some! …alas, it is not to be, However, there is a curious phenomenon at the hole. When the tide comes in far enough to start a strong current into the hole from the sea inlet, big schools of salmon swim in with it, and these fish are not yet in spawning mode, so they will hit bait and lures. The current gets so strong at this time, it’s like fishing on a river. For about 1/2 hour, it is crazy! Then, it all goes back to calm (boring) again. People have figured this out, and pile down to the hole for high tide, and a miniature version of combat fishing takes place.
Yes, that’s me down there, not catching fish. Dang it! The folks over by the inlet are cleaning up! Oh, well, it is entertaining just to be there for the show… I do get one on the line, and get it right to the net, and it gets away. Maybe I need to pray to the fishing deities or sacrifice some salmon eggs or something. Steve, just a few yards to my left catches 4 in about 20 minutes. Hey, Steve, what you using for bait?
Ok, so I’m not such a great fisherman, but I‘m still having a lot of fun fishing. However, I do want to smoke some salmon, and the fish market is right down the street. Hey, they’ve got fresh caught Chinook for $5 a pound. Woo-Hoo! I go in the store with my rod and tell them to hook me up! Smoked salmon… my favorite!
I abandon the fishing hole, and move over to the Homer Spit campground, where I have actual electricity. Wow, cool!
Even if you’re not fishing, there’s a lot to do in Homer! I hook up with Jim and Kim to see the sights. Just up the road near Anchor point is this incredible art gallery. A number of folks have told me “don’t miss it!” and they’re right! The Lowell gallery is a private gallery that the artist, Norman Lowell has built to house his work. It is truly impressive! Norman and his wife came to Alaska in the 40s to homestead. Somehow amongst the work of building a wilderness homestead and raising a family, he also found time to paint, and paint he has, for all these years. Now in his 80s, he still greets visitors to his gallery, and loves to tell his story. He is still painting, but labors under the handicap of the loss of most of his eyesight. He has created a special easel with very bright lights to enable him to continue painting.
I’m not a big fan of art galleries, as a rule, but this gallery is simply amazing. Filled with Norman’s paintings, and a wonderful assortment of sculptures and carvings by other local artists, it is well worth seeing!
We are invited to walk up to the original homestead. Up beyond the artist’s modern log home is the original house they lived in while raising a family in 1950s Alaska. Also on the property is a huge greenhouse, gardens, and the artist’s studio.
Next stop is the Islands and Ocean Visitor’s Center in Homer.
Inside, you’ll find some really excellent displays and information about the wildlife of the area. Very nicely done!
Most of the cool touristy stuff is out on the spit. There are lots of big carvings of fish for photo ops, and a really neat boardwalk with shops and eateries.
Looks like someone had a good salmon fishing trip today!
Local humor:
Thirsty? Drop by the famous Salty Dog saloon! A landmark in Homer for at least the last hundred years or so.
The décor inside is, well, unusual.
Yes, those are all dollar bills. Must be 50 grand tied up in here as wallpaper! Oh, you can get a drink here too, but get the money from your wallet, not the ceiling!
Out back, one of the many fish processing services, busily filleting todays halibut catch. Homer is one of the fishiest places I’ve ever been! There are fish everywhere!
All right, now I’m thirsty again… lets go to the local Homer Brewing company and get a beer sampler. The stout is exceptional, and they have an Extra Special Bitter (ESB) that is pretty darn good, too! I fill a few growlers.
In my opinion, the best place to eat in town is Captain Pattie’s. Do Not miss this place. Excellent seafood. Get the big shrimp, calamari and clam appetizer platter for sure, and the baked halibut in a cream/dill sauce is to die for!
There is a winery in town (imagine that!) and they specialize in blending local berries into their wines. We drop by for a tasting.
The offerings are more reminiscent of mead to me, and I really liked their pomegranate. Jim and Kim are not impressed, but we do have some fun with it, and get a berry rosy glow on.
Random cool dog picture:
All too soon, my stay in homer is ending. I had a great time down here! I take a last walk on the beach, collect some interesting rocks, and pay my respects at the Seaman’s Memorial.
One last sunset from the spit… tomorrow, it’s on to new adventures!
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